Working with a traditional healer

June 25, 2012

I started my internship with Dr. Arzu today. It was even better than expected, which is saying a lot because I had high hopes!! First, her traditional healing is all about connecting with the earth. It was amazing to listen to and talk about all day. There is definitely a shift in my mind occurring here. Mom always says things happen for a reason. It is amazing to see those reasons start to unfold before my eyes. I was definitely meant for this internship and this experience was meant to be a part of my life because it’s creating a view for me. Clearly, the first half of my internship with NHI was guided by my public health goals and partly guided by my mom. As I completed it, the values of communication she is always trying to teach me were forefront in my mind. This half of my internship though with Dr. Arzu is guided a lot by my dad. I felt very connected to what she was saying today because planting is partly in my blood. My dad is amazing at it (for anyone who doesn’t already know!!) If my family was forced to live off the earth, it would take some getting used to but I have no doubt we could do it thanks to dad. So as I was sitting with her today, constantly asking questions about which plants she has and what they do, I often thought of my dad and how he has already established a connection with the earth (even if he doesn’t see it that way.)

Dr. Arzu and I spent the day coming up with a curriculum for a traditional healing certificate here in Belize. Today we worked on the syllabus for an introduction to herbalism course. If I could, I would without a doubt take this course!! But, my calling is public health not traditional medicine so I will leave the healing to her. She and I are very excited about this and plan on creating the whole degree outline by the end of the week! It is great to understand the work I am doing with her will allow indigenous populations to continue their traditional ways, and help their people where modern medicine has failed them.

Which brings me to my next important topic: diversity in Belize. There are many things the U.S. could learn from a small country like Belize. It definitely has it’s struggles since it is a young country, but the people here are like no where else. There are many, many different cultural influences here in Belize. You have the Garifuna people, the Mayans (both Ketchi and Mopan), Creole, East Indians, and many other mixes. The amazing part about this diversity is that it doesn’t separate them. They may have a village full of one heritage but they all respect each other’s culture. They are about helping each other and doing what is best for people, not their country or profit. It is difficult to see them as poor because they are so rich with life. There are no homeless people here in PG or the villages. Some may be living in shacks, but it’s still a home. It is easy to see what the U.S. values when you come to a place like Belize. 

Another Weekend Gone

It has been a pretty relaxing weekend here in PG. On Friday night we went to Bamboo Chicken, a bar here in PG. Sarah's family came in town so we all had a couple drinks and hung out. Sarah's family is great and we shared a few hiking stories! The water was also phosphorescence (that's probably spelled wrong) but it was glowing when we through in rocks. Once again, I missed Island. Definitely a fun night. Samish

On saturday one of the ProWorld staffers, Blaze Chase (awesome name!) came in town from the Cayo sight. She lived in Oxhaca, Mexico for a long time working for ProWorld. She is from Seattle so we chatted about how much we love Washington and the San Juan Islands. (I'm telling you, this trip is just calling my name to go back to Samish this summer. I am VERY disappointed that I can't.) She is super awesome and wish I could pick her brain for a day. Niki, Haley, Coi, and I walked around town to the market and shops in the morning and went to the pier to swim all day. We came back to the bunkhouse to relax in the hammocks and wait for Sarah's family. We had pizza for dinner from one of the restaurants here. They have great Banana shakes. When we got back (partly via my request) we hung a sheet, set up a projector, and watched a movie on the veranda. Laying in a hammock watching a backyard movie is only second to the actual backyard movie night. Loved it!!

Setting up the movie on the porch

Sunday, I joined the Whitman family and the girls on another trip to Blue Creek. Apparently it rained last night so the water was really high and murky. If you saw the pictures from our original pictures they were crystal clear, so it was a the exact opposite. We made it a very short distance through the cave before we had to to turn around because the current was so strong. However, we spent the afternoon jumping off the rope swings again. I had a great time and going back actually made me even more thankful for the amazing time we had on our first visit. 

I am starting my new project with Dr. Arzu tomorrow. I am so very excited for this and can't wait to share it with you all!! I have to be there at 8 am and I don't know how long I will be working. But, since I am going straight to her house instead of the bunkhouse I am not sure the next day I will be back here. I will definitely try to type up my experience on my computer but depending on my schedule I may not post for a few days. Can't wait to share!

Why I wish my Family was here and Other Life Lessons

Sunrise here in PG

Okay, I have been missing all my family and friends lately. I’m not homesick, I just think there are a lot of awesome things going on here in PG that my family would love.

Today we went tree planting with SHI (Sustainable Harvest International) in a village called San Benito Poite. It take about 2 hours to get to because the roads are so poor. This is a remote village but it was BEAUTIFUL when we arrived. We split up into 4 groups and went to a farmer’s house. Each group planted 50 Cacao trees and several coconut trees. It’s rainy season, so the area was really swampy. The guys from SHI would dig the holes and we moved the trees and planted them. I loved it and REALLY wish dad could’ve been here to plant with me. First, because he would’ve done a much better job that we did. Secondly, because I think he would’ve loved it! The SHI guys are awesome and how many people can say they have planted in the jungle!?!

Mary, Sarah, Nana, and I after tree planting

I also wish Mom could come down. I have been able to visit a few schools and I know she would love to visit them as well. I have learned so much and I think mom would be able to engage in a conversation of mutual sharing. Yesterday, we went to Sunday Wood, another village in Toledo district, so the group could do blood pressure checks and glucose checks. I tagged along so I could gather info for my project. It was great to see the village people come out and want to be tested. Since the village people eat food they grow, almost no processed food, and work hard during the day, almost all of them had great blood pressure. I loved to see that! Also, the children would come visit during their school breaks. They were really excited to get pencils and stormed me when I walked to the school for more. All I kept thinking at the school is that mom would’ve loved to be there with me!

Also, when we were listening to Dr. Palacio speak last week, we were at the university. The classroom must have been for educating teachers because there were posters and procedures all over the walls. I snagged this photo for Mom, Ms. Lynn, Ms. Mary Ellen, and Ms. Barb (I apologize if this sounds rude. It is the Belizean way to address you). I thought of all of you as soon as I saw it!!

Finally, life lessons. The other night the group had a cultural reflection session at dinner. I decided to stay because I really wanted to hear what they had to say and their thoughts on their stay in Belize. One of the MANY great things we discussed is how we would keep our stay in Belize with us when we returned home. I personally have been contemplating this one a lot lately. I have learned so much about myself and the world around me while I have been here. So with you, my readers, as my witnesses, I am pledging right here and right now to hold on to the values I have come to love about myself.

1)    Family and Friends – I have had so much support from everyone back home that I realize how many great people I have in my life! It is important to me to have at least one meaningful conversation with someone close each day.

2)    Exercise- I already do this somewhat at home, but all the biking and walking I do here needs to continue when I get back.

3)    Eat organic- While my meals are LOADED with carbs (often only carbs) the food here is so much better. I love how healthy it is and I want to start buying local and organic when I get home. If at all possible, I’d like to grow some of my own.

4)    Travel- This one is easy. I love this adventure and I realize it is the value I may hold closest to my heart. I have met so many great people, experienced some amazing culture, and learned more about myself. I want to travel to a new place at least 1 a year, more if possible.

       5)  Natural medicine – I start my work with Dr. Arzu (a doctor of naturopathy) next Monday. I know this one will become more specific after that, but I love the natural plants and herbs they use as medicine here. I think as far as prevention goes, this would be great for everyone back home.

The more Belizean, the better!

Ok, I haven’t posted in a few days so I have lots to fill you all in on. But first, I want to say thank you to everyone reading this! I appreciate everyone’s support back home as I continue this amazing journey I set out on. You guys are the best!! (Comments below are encouraged!)

On Saturday, we went to the market in the morning to get food for the day and for our snorkeling trip Sunday. We decided to make coconut crusts for the trip. (See previous post on how to make them). The market is full of fruits and veggies. Apparently the Mennonites are the best to buy from because they are the cheapest and their food is very fresh.

We also went to a cultural and history lesson from Dr. Palacio at the University of Belize. It was interesting, but a lot of the info I had learned from my past two weeks in Belize. The info also deserves its own blog post so I’ll save it for a future day when I have more input.We spent Saturday walking around town to the shops and movie stores. If I haven’t mentioned this already, it is legal to bootleg DVDs here. There is store full of movies and you just tell the Alfonzo the movie you want and he copies it for you. They are $4 ($2US). I will definitely be stocking up on some. The day was mostly filled with relaxation. That night, the girls and I made roasted veggies for dinner and cookies for dessert, plus our coconut crusts for the next day. At night, we set up the projector and had a movie theater in our room. (That made me miss home quite a bit, reminded me of backyard movie night). We discussed the possibility of setting up a sheet on the veranda and watching in the hammock for our next movie night!

Sunday was snorkeling day. Roberto was our guide and we met him on one of the piers around 9am. The weather was not perfect but they day was still full of fun! The snorkeling was amazing. I have not perfected the art of blowing water out of the mouth piece but I will work on it! The reef was beautiful and so were the fish. We also went to Snake Cayes and played around a little. Roberto found a snake that we took pictures with. (This was on Coi’s camera so I will be posting it as soon as I get it). All-in-all, it was a fun-filled day. Side note: I meant to post this on Sunday, along with a fathers day video for dad, but it wouldn’t upload. Sorry dad! Love you though and hope it was a great fathers day!

The beautiful water. The dark spots you see are the reef, otherwise its crystal clear.

One of the Snake Cayes

Yep, Snake around my neck! It's a small constrictor snake.

Yesterday, I had more villages to visit. The frustration of a developing country was in full effect. My plan was to visit 4 villages along the highway. But, with a bridge down (the bridge was washed away) the buses weren’t running on schedule. My first village was Indian Creek about 45 minutes away. When I got there, I had to walk around asking people where the village health worker was. After about a 20-minute walk, I finally found his house, but he wasn’t home. I got his wife’s cell phone number to call back later. I had to wait over an hour then for the bus to come and pick me up. I decided to skip Hicatte and go straight to Big Falls. I got there at 12:20. The clinic was closed from 12 to 1. So I waited until 1 to talk with someone. It took 5 minutes to get the info and then I had to wait another hour for the bus again. Once it came, I decided to head back to PG instead of going to Dump because I didn’t have a phone and I was worried about the bus schedule. Back in PG, I went home and read on the porch. I was so exhausted and I went to bed earlier.

 

The health post in Indian Creek. It is abandoned and no longer used.

Today, I got up bright and early. I was at the bunkhouse by 7. There is a group in town from Metro, a University in Denver. They are doing nutrition education in communities as well as blood pressure and glucose checks. I went with them because they went to Sunday Wood and that is a village on my list. I talked to the village health worker, Martin Tush, and community members to gather my info. One of the schoolteachers there lives in Crique Sarco (it sounds like people say Cricket Circle when they say it) so I gathered village info from him. A pretty successful day. I also got to walk with the group as they went house to house. This village has very little. The houses are simple and some people had solar panels but some had no electricity. We also saw the Ministry of Education pull up to the school. When we went to see what they were doing, they were passing out TOMS shoes. For those of you who don’t know, TOMS is an organization with the motto one for one. You buy a pair of shoes and they donate a pair to a child in need. I have a pair myself so it was great to see their philosophy in action. It makes me want to buy another seeing how excited these kids were. If anyone is interested in them, they are definitely worth checking out. The shoes are comfortable too!

The group handing out goodies in the Sunday Wood today

Ministry of Education passing out TOMS

There are several things I have discovered about myself while here. One is the fact that I get the greatest experience being out in the community talking with others. My best days are the days that come with both excitement and frustration. I love hearing people tell me about their culture as well as their community needs. I have one more day on my current project. While I feel like I could’ve done much more, I am proud of my work. I have hopes that it will make a difference in some lives and I know it has shaped my future in ways I didn’t imagine. 

YUMMY YUMMY COCONUT CRUSTS!

The most delicious thing you can eat here in Belize (besides chocolate) is coconut crusts. We had them for lunch when we went to Blue Creek. Since we are going snorkeling tomorrow, we thought it would be a good idea to make them for ourselves and bring them along for lunch. I would like to share the recipe with all of you and save it for future reference myself.

Side note: Belizeans are not precise people. I have no actual measurements so it might take a few tries to get it right. And without Andrea, we would’ve been unsuccessful.

First you need coconut. In the U.S. you can probably buy grated coconut, but here it is authentic. We bought two from the market this morning. If we had a machete, Andrea would’ve used that, but we didn’t so we had to scoop out the coconut with knives. Then we grated it into fine pieces. It took a lot of work, but made it all worth it!

Next, you cook the grated coconut over the stove with sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla extract until it is brown. This took us about 20 minutes of consistent stirring so it wouldn’t burn.

To make the dough, you combine a pound of flour, baking powder, a little sugar, a little salt, and just a little vegetable oil to keep it together. You kneed it, and then roll it into balls the size of a cue ball.

Once the cocnut mixture is cooked, flatten out the balls of dough into a circle. It should be nice and evenly thin. (After making them, I’d say the thinner you can get them, the better!)

Next add the coconut mixture into the center of the dough.

Fold the dough over the mixture to have a crescent shaped crust.

Use a fork around the edges to seal it tight.

Spray a little pam or oil onto a baking sheet and place crusts on the sheet. Cook in the oven (the oven was on max so I have no real temperature for you) until a nice golden brown. It should be about 10-12 minutes and Andrea flipped it over at one point to make sure it was even.

Sarah and Andrea

This will definitely be a trial and error kind of baking. Ours were delicious but not as good as Juans. Good luck to anyone making them and let me know how it goes!!

Holding our finished coconut crust

Q&A

Since mom emailed me some questions (and I think you are the only one reading it, mom), I thought I would answer them. I don’t have much else to write about right now.

What is the number one health concern?

So I ask each community chairperson or health worker I talk to what they think is the most prominent disease in their community. I am surprised that many communities say hypertension or diabetes. We learned about this in public health classes. There is a global trend that developing countries are now starting to suffer from chronic diseases rather than infectious diseases. It makes me happy to see that people are aware of these diseases, but I hope something can be done earlier rather than later to address these issues.

How are the schools structured?

This one was taken me a while to grasp. They do not call them grades, but rather Infant and Standard. Infant 1 and 2 are similar to preschool. From there you have Standards 1-6 (you graduate from standard 6 around age 14) and then high school (which you graduate at age 17). The schools do not always get out at the same time for summer break. Right now, the high school here in PG is out but the primary school is still going. And different primary or high schools aren’t always on the same schedule. It makes no sense to me, but it does to Cordillya who just explained it to me. She also said that most people these days do go on to high school but it just depends on their financial situation.

What were the crazy chairs at the circus?

I never found this out because I didn’t attend the circus. But I did find out that everyone REALLY wanted to see the tiger that danced like Michael Jackson. It is also in Spanish.

What is the next holiday?

Well obviously, Father’s Day is this Sunday. They celebrate it similar to us. I am not sure what holiday comes after that but I will be sure to celebrate whatever it is in Belizean style.

What do they think of America?

I haven’t heard a lot of what they think of America. My home stay family loves it. Several of them have been to L.A. or have relatives living there and love to visit. Evert, the village chairperson for Elridgeville told me he has been to Chicago. He said he liked it but it was too busy for him. I know there are definitely misconceptions, but I’ll have to find out more about what they are. Although Ms. Consuela asked me last night if men in the U.S. have more than one woman. I told her most of them do not. Apparently, it is not uncommon here for men to have more than one woman or families.

How has technology influenced changes in their lives?

MANY people here have cell phones. They also have an electronic system at the hospital for keeping some records (not all). I haven’t discussed technology much with people. Not all of the villages have electricity, but most do. I will have to find out more and get back to this one.  

Traditional Spanish meal Olivia made me

Olivia's son Elvin

The bus stop in Eldridgeville

Evert's house in Eldridgeville that he welcomed me in

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

The Good

It is amazing being here. There are so many good things I am learning through this experience. Let me tell you a little bit about the staff here in PG. First there is Olivia, who I’ve already talked about quite a bit. She is from Belize, 24 and has two ADORABLE kids. She laughs at me a lot and has been my tour guide (more like lifesaver) on my internship so far. Then there is Noemi. She is also a local Belizean who is 28 and has 3, also adorable, kids. She is always in a great mood and I love talking with her. Next there is Sarah. She works for ProWorld in the U.S. during the year talking to Universities about ProWorld and then gets to visit the sites during the summer (I think I want her job!) She is very sweet, smart, and reminds me so much of Chelsea it’s crazy! I enjoy hearing her transition to Belizean life as well. Then there is Akeisha, who got her like 2 months ago. She will be here for a year and it the volunteer coordinator here. She is awesome and has made me feel comfortable here from day one! Next is Perlina. She is quite but super nice. She is 23 and helped me with my project as well. She is also great with nails so I am hoping she will do mine at some point. Lee is the only guy at the office. He and I had a GREAT conversation the other day about changes in Belize. Nicole is the country director and has lived in PG for 20 years. Hearing many of her stories are unbelievable (like the fact that she lived in the Jungle and didn’t see anyone for a year). The staffers are awesome and so is my internship!

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The Bad

Ok I guess it isn’t bad, but there have been many cultural barriers to overcome while I’ve been here. First there is language. I cannot understand Creole, but I am learning new phrases (The only one I remember is Weh You Deh? Meaning where are you). Almost everyone here speaks English and at least one other language (mostly Creole and Spanish). They also say reach instead of arrived. “When did you reach” They say refridge, instead of refrigerator or fridge. They say “excuse” instead of excuse me. The food is interesting too. They eat beans constantly! I have had it for breakfast every morning and almost every night at dinner. (FYI Beans and rice are not the same thing as rice and beans). They make authentic tortillas, and eat them almost everyday, especially in the villages. I am not the biggest fan of tamales, but I’m willing to try it again. And finally, they stare at me pretty weirdly. In the hospital, because I am white, they don’t say much to me when I am wandering around the halls. In villages however, people often stare, since I am quite the outsider. Also, Belizeans often tell you a miss representation of distance. When Olivia tells me something is 10 minutes away, I know I will be biking for 20. A good distance = at least a mile. My favorite phrase is “Right Now, Right Now.” It’s pretty much the same response as “in a second.” I love it, just like I loved “I’m on my way coming” in Ghana.

The Ugly

The further I get into this community mapping project, the more excited and upset I feel. I am excited because I am the first one to do this. This is public health at its core. Finding out what a community needs and what should be done to address them. And they often already know what their communities needs are. I had some resistance in the beginning, and especially with NGO’s wanting to know what I was going to do with the information. But they tend to work with me in the end. The part I have come to realize though is that they expect something from me. They expect me to give them information or help in return. And while I know that help is a long time from now, they might not. Or maybe they do. While I have hopes of making a difference, in the end, I am just another foreigner coming to gather information and leaving them with nothing. I can see now why they don’t like to give up their information. They have no idea what I am going to do with it. I know I will have to follow up, if I ever want to know what really has become of my work. But, I believe in ProWorld enough to know my information is worth something. And while it may be slow, this is making a positive outcome in the end.